I step into the alley, and the market is calming down. That space in between the last grocery rush and the cleaning up and rest—where the constant flow of scooters and people slowly fades away, giving space to a relaxing, comfy vibe where people chitchat from one side of the street to the other.

Late again, Mattia.

I feel some are making fun of me. I have no clue what they are telling each other, nor what they are telling me. On one side, a guy screams “No, no, no!” while I pick up the camera, only to then smile and pose—such a curious way to grab attention.

I slowly start to figure out that this is the time I like the most in a market—and not only because it allows me to maintain my sleeping schedule. On one hand, yes, I miss the vigorous interactions, but on the other, I have the space to interact more with people. To get candid portraits and melt with the place without the oppressive rush of constant people or scooters running over me. And still, the heat is doing what a crowded market would have done to me: making me feel overwhelmed. It’s 11:27, and guess what? I’m sweating.

I sit down and order a glass of lychee iced tea. Luckily, I now have a fan pointing constantly at me, and I feel it’s the right moment to sit, cool down, open the Notes app, and write this part of the missive.

After the tea, I grab a Grab, head back for a well-deserved break at the hotel, and then meet with the remaining group from The RAW Society. Some will leave tomorrow, some are staying long-term. Such a nice feeling to have people you already have something in common with when visiting a new place. I feel quite uncomfortable making chitchat with strangers—I turn into an introvert as easily as I turn into an extrovert when I’m around people I’m comfortable with.

The last stop of the day is the dock. Luckily enough, it seems I will witness the celebration of the 50-year anniversary of the country’s unification, so I cannot leave Ho Chi Minh without having a look at the designated military area alongside the river. And then, surprise: another city unfolds in front of me—a myriad of tourists from all over the world. Skyscrapers. Lights. Everything I witnessed only from far away while driving around with the scooter was now surrounding me. While walking around, a group all dressed up for the celebrations asks me for a group picture with them—it seems I look exotic here. And finally, I get what I was looking for: a photo with military in it. Somehow, it felt necessary—to reflect the full picture of this city, with all its layers, including the military presence and what it represents.

Tomorrow it’s time to pack everything and embark on a 6-hour (hopefully) bus ride in the direction of Châu Đốc. I’ll stop there just a couple of days to explore the Mekong Delta and then move on.

Thank you for the warm welcome, Saigon.

Till tomorrow,
— M


[AN] I put two version of the same photo because I'm still not sure which is the one I prefer.