I wake up for the first time alone after some time in Mexico. My partner flew back to Spain, and the second part of the trip is starting.

I’m a bit dizzy and sleepy. The first night in a new room is always one of adjustments. I reach the shower as an errand in the desert with an oasis, only to find it cold as fuck. Good morning, and welcome to the first Missive from Mexico.

I desperately need coffee if I want to keep going today and send out this first missive. I don’t lie when I tell you that I questioned myself for doing this. But, as with the first time from Vietnam, it’s highly rewarding. It’s a space for reflection and sharing.

Sharing, precisely. That’s the first thing I learn about in Oaxaca (finally, after a few paragraphs, you know where I am): guelaguetza. This term originates from Zapotec cultures and symbolizes reciprocal giving and receiving, fostering a sense of shared responsibility and celebration within the core of Oaxaca communities.

And that’s what I discover once, in the desperate search for coffee, I meet Victor. I’m attracted by his purple suit and tattoo. I firstly take some photos without letting him notice me, but then I decide to approach him. And he was so willing to share his story at the point that he takes off his shirt and shows me the Virgin of Juquila tattoo on his back. He’s so devoted to this virgin and all the things she brought to his life.

We chitchat a bit but then I can’t ignore anymore my need for coffee and I move ahead.

And now I’m here, sitting sipping a cortado typing these words on my mobile and going through the photos from last night’s lucha libre event.

I couldn’t resist attending one, and Oaxaca didn’t disappoint. I firstly thought about it in Mexico City but everything I saw felt quite touristy. Here it wasn’t the case, a real raw arena with local fighters and, for my surprise, a very known (not to me) WWE wrestler: Alberto del Rio.

It was wild. They were just throwing themselves from the ring to the sideline chairs. People, me included, had to run away to not get caught in the fight or having one of them on your lap. A chair actually crashed on my shin and I’ve been lucky that my glass was empty; otherwise, my bag was going to sink in beer and I hate that smell. Three hours of fun, screams. "¡Esto es lucha!".

For the next few days, I will wander around Oaxaca and will start a journey towards Yucatán. I have a loose plan to visit small towns along the way toward Holbox before flying back to Mexico City.

As mentioned, I will send the missives every two or three days. That will depend on happenings and internet connection. And also because I want to keep a good balance between the journey and these writings.

I hope you enjoyed this missive; you can always hit reply to this email to reach out.

Till the next missive,

— M